IT hailed on us in London. It’s sweltering in Milan. In Paris, who knows? A constant source of fashion frustration is that bikinis aren’t available to buy in the summer because all the winter collections arrive in store in August – or before – and then you can’t find a winter coat for love nor money in January because all the spring collections have dropped. Not so anymore – when Christopher Bailey presented cashmere for summer last week, nobody batted an eyelid, and MaxMarahad the same message this morning: you can’t depend on standard seasonal weather, so we need to mix up the conventions.
A slip dress in double-faced cashmere, with a softly draped coat to match? Of course! A tracksuit in sheer lamé? Our weather worries are over. The design team worked on a “metropolitan neo-minimalist elegance reminiscent of a legendary New York” which meant a colour palette of pearl, grey and palest beige to reflect “the streets and buildings of a cityscape”. Meteorological discourse aside, it had all the signature luxury chic of a house known for fabulous quality coats and daywear with lamé and tactile paper effect fabrics adding a modern twist. The cagoule which crept into the fashion frame in London (via a fabulous multi-coloured floral one at Preen), appeared here in a muted cream, while cotton pencil skirts and matching boxy jackets carried a washed denim print. Bright pops of purple, green and orange made for fantastic, attention-seeking shoulder bags, while sheer, iridescent slip dresses were a sexy glimpse of femininity beneath hardy hooded cloaks.
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