Is not anymore only Dior and Chanel. This days as we
seen on Paris Couture shows, there is a lot of new energy going on. The old
houses seem to have their story tell from year to year, but someone like Maison
Martin Margiela , Fred Sathal or Giambattista
Valli , give as something that is unique,fresh and beautiful.
There was over 30 shows and presentation, in which,
some even show their collection for a first time,was a lot of emotions, glamour,
perfect embroidery, team work (count hours on a dress or coat), contemporary
design and surprises.
The Couture week was unofficial open with the show
of Didit, where we saw high gray pants and leather tops, black dresses that
have romantic touch in the cut, more grey coats and skirts. Then sky blue
dresses with black birds on it and green touch on the skirts and black fur. It
was all about the young spirit and time travel cut, put in today’s form.
Next on the first day was Fred Sathal.He is in love
with the crystals. The most colorful collection of the Week. Starting with embroidery
shirt-skirt with crystals that shines so bright and continued with hippy pants
and a match silk top. The dresses were like abstract experionist canvases(photo1)
in variation of
earths and pastel tones. Then white fur for the winter days and more cocktail crystal
dresses. , to finished with the bride in white contemporary dress walking bear
food.
The last collection for the day was Atelier Versace.
Maria Carla B opened the show in total black look. It will be strange for
Versace to not pull out the most sexual outfits, so here they are.Corset in
black with half bra and half sleeve of coat,weared with black pants. Then blue
dress and black one wearied with cloves. An open dress which show as pants with
one lag naked and one with material on.(Photo 2)
Second
day opens with the Schiaparelli show. The great House of Schiaparelli was
re-born few seasons ago from Lacroix. It was clear from the beginning that it’s
going to be avangarde with a glamour touch and a bit of shock, what is
Schiaparelli all about. The show opened with leopard coat which sleeves
were made of fur. Next a fur coat over a black dress with a one rabbit ear hat.
Brown snake leather skirt from the 30`s with big belt and broken heart application
on the top, were accessorized with a top heat and a pirate cloves. The broken
heart goes on the black cocktail dress and than a long pink coat with the
initials embroidered on it “ES” for Elsa Schiaparelli. Green fur sleeves and
children party hat was shown too. One of the greatest moments in the collection
was the high pink pants combined with brown old-craft glamour top and matching
purple cloves.(Photo3)
At the end of the collection there was a
yellow dress with embroidery and a perfect black one in a combination with embroidery
tuxedo and a shock hat. The show closed with a long dress in purple with
emdrodary.Even if it was too much for someone’s eye, the spirit was on and
there was really good craft on. The hats done their purposes and it was a
collection to remember.
Christian Dior
is inspiration for a lot of designers, so Raf did a collection again that
remind of the old Dior, full of nostalgia and with giving a fresh touch on the clothes,
he made a perfect ones. There was snow-white in modern term at the opening,
with great detail on it. The embroidery was made such an impact on the eye that
it makes you to fell like is one with the dress.Beautiful, French and Couture,
was the real words. But there was not only dresses,Raf shown us that Couture is
not only for glamour event, but can be wearied in everyday situation, shown in
the white pants and matching top with great cut, well decorated.(Photo 4)
At the end of
Day 2, the show of Giambattista
Valli give to us story of a woman that is chic all day long.
So she can put on her Valli clothes and she is ready for a coffee in Café de Flore,
to go on some cocktail party, or to parade on the Red Carpet. From the black
and white stripe dress at the beginning, to the fur tops wear with stripe pants
and floral embroidery day dresses, Valli play with Couture in his best elements.
The perfect white dress embroidered with flowers was one of the highs of the collection.
Shirt put in maxi skirt give a strong look, just like the same shirt put in
white organza. Then more fur, purple and black for night. The show was closed
with for great ball skirts in blue,yellow,pink combined with the same shirt
with matching color.(Photo 5)
In the much
smaller space at Grand
Palais, that was considered for this presentation, where all
was in white and gold, Karl wants to say this session of the Chanel story trough
the Baroque and Le Corbusier.In a most simply way in black and white, the
day “uniform “at Chanel, was wear with flat sandals, tight with a ribbon on the
ancle.There was the hat too, put on the back of the heat. In all a reminder of
what is on next. The show continued with white skirts and tops, than grey pants
and black skirt with black-gray coat all delicate craft and made by the new Le
Corbusier inspired texture. The hair was wild and short. There were postman bags,
made in matching fabric like the clothes. Total red look with a one button coat
and one of the highlights of the collection, the baroque-gold embroidery top
with “Le Corbusier” skirt.(Photo 6)
Except the flats,
there were a high boots with ribbons on it, too.Till the end of the show Karl
shown to as perfect white and black combinations of skirts, coats and tops, all
perfect craft and embroidered in baroque-gold and silver style. The most
interesting moment of the show was the bride at the end, who was 6 months pregnant.
Chanel for sure is on the top for a long period, but why she will not be; when
the genius of Karl Lagerfeld is produce such a magnificent ideas.
The collection
that never gives a lot of excitements, but always looks beautiful and full of elegancy,
is the one that is given as by Giorgio Armani. What to say about this gentlemen
of the Italian fashion, one of the greatest designer to this day,except,that he
always find a way to stay himself. The Prive show start with a white coat,
after which continued with red short cap wear with short red skirt and accessorized
with red cloves and snake bag. The show went on with day outfits, black coats,
skirts, White pants and red romantic touch on a black skirt. Red and black coat
in artistic way to art décor on white coats.(Photo 7)
Maison Martin Margiela at the start of day 4 of the
Couture Week, bring as the most fresh and incredible collection till then. From
the very beginning in almost total white look, skirt with big shoulders and
golden buttons on it, wear over tight white pants, and a black vail, the young
designer from Margiela stand up high. The Floral embroidered long coat was fantasy
come true, just like the dress cut on one side very high, so the white boots complete
the whole look. Embroidered silk blue body and a naked dress with golden polka-dots,
was for sure one of the best looks. Then a little structure and detail across the
torso, all over a naked dress. The show continued with patchwork dresses and
the highlight the top in a shape of a heart, on which was embroidered “I LOVE YOU”.(Photo 8 )
Valentino come, from where he left as the last
seson.The young duo at Valentino seems living in a fairytale. Now they are inspired
fro ancient Rome and they put all of that in one Old garden. The opening look
was all white in roman style, wear with flat roman sandals, and tight up at the
knees. The elegancy continued inspired from the roman vase decoration, put now
on long white coat. Than long dress and black-naked dress embroidered with
florals.Black and white continued with the skirt, tops and long dresses. To
give a little brightness, there were gold and silver embroidery too. The cocktail
dresses were blue, black and red all nice craft and elegant. Long blue roman
style dress opens the night section, where we saw black and white combination
again and the most beautiful golden floral skirts and coats.The show was closed
with the art piece of the collection.(Photo 9)
Valentino always been and will be the best
from Italy.
The last day was the shows of Zuhair Murad ,Ralph
& Russo and Oscar Carvallo who in their own way show to the Couture World
that can really produce beautiful and timeless pieces of Haute Couture.
Like every session and this one was full of good and
bad thing. But in The End we are remembering only the good ones, so “Pour La vie du Mode”.
